World of Tanks – How to Block Damage

World of Tanks – How to Block Damage


The AMX 40, SuperPershing,
IS-7, and Maus. What do they have in common? Good armor for their tier. Their enemies are used to hearing
“We didn’t penetrate their armor!” Of course, this is only true
if you use these tanks properly, which is a permanent problem
for many players. Here you can see the Е 100 trying to
block shells with the front of her turret. And here’s the IS-7
in a sidescraping position. In five minutes you’ll know
what they are doing wrong. We’ll tell you how
to use your armor wisely and help you carry out
personal missions. How to block damage Thick armor, sloped turrets, and well-angled armor plates. All this increases
a vehicle’s survivability. However, you cannot have a tank
that’s completely invulnerable. The lower glacis plate,
sides, rear, and cupola— these parts are easy
to hit and penetrate. That’s why it’s important
to learn how to protect your tank. World of Tanks players
call it “blocking damage.” How to block damage It is based on the rules
of penetration mechanics. A vehicle will block a hit if: 1. The armor’s relative thickness is higher than the shell’s
penetration capability. 2. The shell hit a screen or
an external module, lost energy, and failed to penetrate the main armor. 3. A ricochet occurred. Any of these events can happen thanks to either the designers who’ve
taken care of the vehicle’s protection and equipped it with
thick and well-sloped armor, or the commander’s decision. This tank doesn’t have
thick and sloped armor. But an experienced player
would position it in such a way that shells hit the armor at more than
70 degrees to the normal and ricochet. In this case, we say, “The tank
is in a sidescraping position.” If the vehicle turns further,
the risk of penetration increases. Greater angles are required
against stronger guns. The techniques to protect
your tank are well-known. Here are the most popular ones: 1. Blocking damage with the turret. 2. Blocking damage
with the hull’s front. 3. Sidescraping and blocking
damage with the side. 4. Reverse sidescraping. 5. Forcing the enemy to shoot. These tricks are also
accompanied by “hull dancing,” which means wabbling
your hull and turret. This makes it difficult for the enemy
to aim and fire at your vulnerable spots. It may seem that everything’s simple—
roll out and block damage. But we fight battles on different
maps and face different enemies. How do I choose
the technique that works best? First of all, you should take
a closer look at your tank. How to block damage Let’s start with the turret and
assess the armor thickness. If its official values are
about the same or higher than the penetration potential
of most enemies in battle, everything’s great. The tank
will avoid damage effectively. If the values are lower,
all is not lost yet. Let’s take a look at the turret shape. If it is streamlined, the armor
can meet the shell at an angle. The relative armor will be much
thicker than the nominal armor. And the thick gun mantlet will become
a nice extra piece of protection. A turret like this should be
kept straight towards the enemy and not expose its sides. What can be easier than that? If you hide your hull, you can resist enemy shells
and fire in response. Doing this when you have
the IS-7 is unequaled pleasure. The ideal shape! If your turret has a rectangular
shape, it’s a bit more difficult. The gun mantlet can still take a blow, but the turret cheeks will be
penetrated by virtually anything. To protect yourself,
you can turn the turret and put it in a sidescraping position. This will increase
the nominal armor thickness. However, if you overdo it,
the enemy can penetrate the side. So it’s important to remember
the ricochet angles. After the enemy has fired a shot,
you can fire in response. And return to the starting position. The geometry becomes
especially interesting when you’re facing several enemies. You’ve got to block shells
coming from different directions while firing in return. In this situation, it’s important
to turn the turret to an impenetrable angle to
the enemy that is about to shoot. These are the basics
of playing your turret. These techniques will work if you’re
behind cover on a horizontal surface and managed to hide the tank’s hull. You can use arcs, embankments, terrain features, destroyed tanks, etc. And it doesn’t matter where
your turret is mounted on the hull or how good the elevation
and depression angles are. Problems can arise if you
meet an experienced enemy who aims for your weak spots. So you should learn to protect them. Here’s the commander’s cupola. In most cases it’s quite
easy to penetrate this part. This one is small,
so moving back and forth is enough to make it difficult
for the enemy to aim. Some commander’s cupolas are big. In this case, you should
choose a position from which the enemy will see
only the part of your tank’s turret that doesn’t have vulnerable spots. If that’s impossible,
you can go for another variant: turn the turret like this,
and the cupola disappears. Magic, isn’t it? How to block damage Life becomes more colorful when your tank’s gun depression
angle is more than 8 degrees. Hills, mountains, and other sloping
surfaces become your best friends. You hide your hull and meet the enemies
in full control of the situation. This is how you can protect the
commander’s cupola and thin turret roof. If you get to sloped terrain, these
parts will become a difficult target. However, a lot depends on where
the turret is attached to the hull. If it’s closer to the rear, you can forget about taking
position on top of a hill. You’re better off riding down
to the foot of the hill. However, even small depression angles aren’t critical for a tank
with strong armor. You can look for a good
place on irregular terrain and position your vehicle
so that you can fire conveniently without exposing your weak spots. Now here’s a trick that works
for tanks with a strong turret. There’s an unexpected
way to use terrain. We’re all used to tanks
moving on a horizontal surface. And so we look for relevant shelters. Now look at the foot of the mountain. The enemies are waiting
around the corner. They’re aiming at the place
where the front wheel will appear. This is what usually happens! And this is why nobody
wants to attack first. But there is a way out! You should climb up a slope! Now it works like a regular hill,
hiding your lower glacis plate and allowing you to absorb
damage with the turret. Just look at this
from a different angle. Sometimes the slope can help
even in hopeless situations. Climbing up with the rear. Using irregularities like piles
of debris on Himmelsdorf. And even if we don’t win the battle, one or two shots could grant
a mark of excellence on the barrel. This is basically all the theory on
soaking up damage with the turret. If it seemed simple
to you, that’s great. Now it’s time to engage
all your mental capabilities. We proceed to the hull, the largest
and most sophisticated part of a tank. How to block damage Following tradition,
we’ll start with the hull’s front. It would’ve been nice
to have thick armor here. So that no one
could penetrate it at all. But then the tank would be very slow. Seeking a balance between
protection and mobility, designers experimented
with the shape. Here we will take a look
at different variants of a hull’s front and see how they can
help you survive in battle. Let’s start with this one.
It’s the pike nose. It consists of sloped armor plates. The sharper their angle,
the thicker their relative armor. Front armor like this is effective when
it’s directed straight towards the enemy. Your task is to find piles of debris
and terrain irregularities to hide the vulnerable
lower glacis plate. And then just stay still. Still doesn’t mean
completely motionless! Even the thickest front armor
has vulnerable spots. And you shouldn’t let the enemy
aim at them. So dance! Back and forth a bit,
left and right a bit. If you turn the pike nose too much,
the relative armor thickness decreases. The chance of penetration increases. Forget about shootouts
from around corners. When facing an enemy
of equal strength, play defensively, move out to fire when
the enemy is reloading. When playing tanks that have a straight
front, with vertical armor plates, you have to work a bit harder. You see an enemy, put the hull
in a sidescraping position. Like with the turret,
you should take the correct angle, otherwise the enemy
will penetrate your side. The best solution is to find shelter, from which you’ll expose only
your front part at a ricochet angle. Tease them. In most cases, the
adversary will take the bait and fire. This is called
“forcing the enemy to shoot.” Now you can fire in response,
rinse and repeat. When doing this, try not to expose
your front wheel to the enemy. It may be helpful if you zoom out the
camera and view the tank from the side. This makes it easier
to control the angles. However, with some tanks you just
can’t avoid exposing their front wheels. Look what the good
old Churchill is doing. You think he’s carelessly exposed
his side to an enemy shot? Nothing of the sort—
the side is still safe. How to block damage Let’s continue our discussion. The next topic is blocking
damage with the tank’s side. To resist the shot, you should put the tank
in a sidescraping position behind cover and hide your lower glacis plate. The efficiency of blocking
damage will depend on a combination of the hull shape,
relative thickness of its armor plates, availability of screens, and armor
protection of the running gear. This is the E 100. Everybody knows that this tank
soaks up damage with its side. Why? First the shell has
to penetrate a 60-mm screen. If the tank is positioned properly,
this value more than doubles. The projectile loses part
of its penetration potential and hits the chassis,
which is 40 mm thick. The running gear is an external
module, so, irrespective of the angle, her thickness is always
of nominal value. Anyway, the shell will lose
part of its energy again and try to penetrate the hull’s relative
armor, which is over 250 mm thick. And fail. This tank will
definitely play its side. No doubt about it. But the problem is that most
vehicles can’t boast armor like this. Moreover, in practice, one tank
can play its turret pretty well, while another fails
to do this efficiently. And even thorough analysis
of the specifications doesn’t always help reveal the reason. But there is an answer to this.
And it’s not about the numbers. Let’s find it using
two tanks as an example. The Kranvagn’s hull
is officially 70 mm thick, and the running gear
is 30 mm thick. The Т57 Heavy’s hull
is just 44 mm thick, and its running gear is 20 mm. Judging by these figures, the
American tank doesn’t have a chance. The IS-7 will test
how strong their sides are by firing shells with an average
penetration capacity of 250 mm. Here’s the result. The Swedish tank is penetrated
with almost every shot, while the Т57 Heavy resists
the hits much better. This is what it’s all about. The Kranvagn’s running gear
is as strong as that of the IS-7. Having pierced through it, the shell
loses 30 mm of its penetration capacity. But then it meets
the vertical armor plates, whose relative thickness
is 140 mm or higher. The tank’s side can block
the hit only if a ricochet happens. But when it’s no longer
a ricochet angle, the shells start
penetrating the armor. In the heat of the battle
this happens almost every time. Therefore it’s best
to recall that this “Swede” has an excellent hull and
can use it to soak up damage. The T57 Heavy has weaker
armor on its running gear. And there is a thin hull behind it. But the US tank’s hull has a rounded
shape, which can work wonders. Look at the angles at which
a shell meets the armor. The Т57 Heavy can be less careful, but still receive ricochets
and non-penetrations. If the shell flies a bit lower, you may well hear the annoying
“Critical hit!” message. So here’s some advice:
when facing the Heavy, fire at the upper part of the tank’s
side or at the lower part of its turret. Then it’s much easier
to damage the tank. How to block damage What else should we pay attention to before beginning to block
damage with the side? Often you can see a pretty thin side
between the track lines and the fender. Here you can rely only
on the relative armor thickness. So you should put the tank at a very
sharp angle to the enemy’s line of fire. It is also important to hide
the front part of the chassis, as one can easily penetrate
the thin hull through it. This position for the tank
would be ideal. It makes the vehicle
quite difficult to destroy. This position will help
protect the pike nose. In this case, you should try to expose
the rear part of your tank’s side and encourage the enemy to fire. By the way, when
a tank with a pike nose is exchanging shots
from around a corner, you can use a different
sidescraping position. It’s called reverse sidescraping. The most important thing is
to hide the tank’s rear behind cover and roll out for a shot
without exposing it. How to block damage Now you know everything you need to figure out which tanks can
soak up damage and which can’t. And, most importantly, what the
appropriate protection techniques are. However, theory alone
won’t be enough. Go to the training room and try
to block different types of shells from the most dangerous enemies. Find the angles that
allow you to resist their hits. And watch guides by the video makers
to reinforce your knowledge. Good luck in battle!

local_offerevent_note August 31, 2019

account_box Gilbert Heid


local_offer

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