How to Fish: Setting Up Your Fly Rod | GoFishBC

How to Fish: Setting Up Your Fly Rod | GoFishBC


So I’d like to demonstrate now, just from
the very beginning, how to put your rod together to get set up for fishing with
a floating line today. So here’s my rod. It happens to be a four-piece rod – many
of the rods you buy today they’re four-piece because they’re easy to pack and
travel with and the ferrule system is indistinguishable from a rod
that’s one piece. So they’ve really perfected the ferrule system. So we’re
going to take our rod and we’re going to just put the four pieces together and you’re
not going to jam it in hard; just snug so it’s snuggly in there and then top your
pieces snug, and then we’ve got the main piece. Your typical fly rod for
lake fishing should be nine to ten feet in length so nine, nine and a half is
perfect. Nine-foot rods are great for full-sinking fly lines, and when you’re
fishing with a floating lines nine and a half or 10-foot is great. So
this is a nine and a half rod in a six weight. Fly rods come in
different weighting system, so like a one weight to fourteen weight – so to give
you an idea of what you use what so you’d use a two weight for fishing small
creeks for small fish and you’d use a fourteen weight for sailfish, tarpon or
striped marlin. For fishing in lakes a five weight or a six weight rod
is perfect. This rod here is a nine foot six inch for a six weight line so
it’s number six line actually it’s nine foot six and it’s four piece and this
would be perfect for fishing lakes in a six weight or a five weight. So here’s my
reel. Here’s the end of my leader on my fly reel. So we’ve got to string it up through
the guides but you don’t want to be using the leader to string it up because
if you let it go it’s going to fall through. What you do is you strip off a bunch of line until you get to your fly line and
then just bend it over in half and then start stringing it through and the
beauty of this if you drop it the loop catches and it doesn’t fall all the way
back through. It’s just a quick little tip to help you string your line
up. Just follow it through. Again, you let go, it doesn’t fall back. And then we’re
gonna keep going up and you should never pull on the rod to make it bend over to
thread your line because it’s pretty sensitive up there very thin and that’s how
people predict a lot of rods. They’re reaching for the tip and instead of
moving to thread it through they’d bend it sharply over and you end up breaking
the rod. So all the way up. Now the lines through. I’ve pulled through my
leader so now we’ve got the system monofilament. This is your leader. Here’s
the end of your fly line and here’s my leader. If I wanted to fish with a
floating line, long leader, no indicator I’ve already got my leader set up and I
just add more monofilament or fluorocarbon –
it’s called tipping material – to get down to the depth of water you want to be
fishing. So for instance, if I wanted fish floating line, long leader and I was
anchoring fishing on the shoal in 15 feet of water thern I’d want to be using a
leader that’s at least about 20 percent longer than that depth of water
we’re fishing. So in 15 feet of water you’re going to need to be fishing with
a leader that’s 23 to 25 feet in length and that allows for the fly to
sink until you do a retrieve. Because you can’t just use a 15-foot leader because
when you’re doing your retrieves you’re not going to get your fly close to the
bottom. So you need that longer leader let it sink and do that nice gradual
retrieve up off the bottom. What I’m going to set up though right now is another
very common way to fish with floating lines and that’s with a strike
indicator. I’ve got the end of my tippet. I’m gonna thread on a quick
release indicator like so. Now it’s sliding on my main leade and then I’m using a number 12 barrel swivel, to just add a bit more
weight, and I’m tying it on with a clinch knot like so. You wet it to lubricate
the knot. There’s my swivel tied on to there and then you can buy
tippet material in spools in different weights. This is 4x which equals to 6 pound
and 4, 5, 6, 7 pound tippet material is what we typically use for lake
fishing. This is 6 pound and so I’m just gonna take some off the spool
like so. I need about 24 inches or so of tippet material that I’ll tie in
below the swivel. So I cut that off and now I’m gonna take the other end of the
swivel, thread my line through it. It’s called a clinch knot – seven times around the
main line back through, let it slowly tighten the knot and now we’ve got our
two connections. Okay, so now we’re into the tippet material here. We’re gonna tie
on our fly that we’re going to use. I’ve just got a number 12
black and red chironomid – which is a go-to pattern –
and I’m tying the fly on with a knot called a non-slip loop knot. So there’s
the end of my tippet. I’m just making one overhand knot in it
like so. Okay this is a very important knot to learn forlake
fishing because any fly you fish that’s subsurface- anything that’s sinking
through the water- you want to use a loop knot because it pivots- the fly is
allowed to twist and turn. So I’ve just threaded it on. There’s my overhand knot
there, I bump it up. This is my tag-end – and this is the last step- I’m wrapping it around five times around the main line and then I’m
going back through the overhand knot and then letting it pulling it tight so
now we’ve got this loop. The flies tied on with a loop so it’s free to
float around and twist and turn. If it was a clinch know the fly wouldn’t move. You have a lot more lifelike action by tying the new
loop knot. You know the loop knot is done right when the tag end, the short piece, is
hanging at 90 degrees from the mainline. We’re just going to take our
nippers now. Now we’ve got the fly on, 24 inches above it is a swivel, and
then the swivel goes from there up onto our main leader and here’s our quick
release indicator which has got a black peg that the leader is throug. We
just make a little loop and push it through so you end up with a little
loop there. The reason why these things are effective is that when you
get a bite it trips the indicator and the indicator slides down and so you can
land the fish and the indicator is not way up on the leader. Now we’ve got
our complete system and we’re ready to go fishing.
It’s pretty simple- you need two knots: a clinch knot, a clinch knot to tie
on the swivel. It’s a clinch knot or an improved
clinch knot, and then a non-slip loop knot which allows your fly to pivot and very
important knot to learn. You can Google these- just go on Google and type
in ‘non-slip loop knot’ or ‘clinch knot’ or ‘improved clinch knot’ and you’re
ready to go. Every fly rod comes with a hook keeper- just hook
it on there, wind in the slack and we’re ready to go fishing. We’ll set our
indicator at the depth we want to fish. So there’s your floating line system. Here’s my sinking line setup.
So similar to the floating line it’s another nine 1/2 foot rod. So 9, 9 and a half are good for for your sinking lines. This is another 4 piece rod as well, so
I’ve put it together, strung the fly line just like I did with the floating line
and then tied on a little black and maroon leech with a non-slip loop
knot again because you want that fly to undulate and be 50% more lifelike versus
tying it with a knot like a cinch not that doesn’t allow that fly to move. Hookkeeper is ready to go. This is a type 7 line that’s that’s on a
wide arbor reel. All the reels I like to use are wide arbor. So that
that means that the diameter of the of the of the reel is quite wide in the
middle so the line doesn’t develop a memory like if it was a narrow arbor reel.
These are reels that I can open-face I can palm them if I get a really big fish
on I can put my hand down here to slow it down and they’ve got a drag system on
them. I can adjust the back to increase or decrease the tension on how
easily the line goes out. I can back it right off so it’s really easy or I can
tighten it and it’s harder to come off. So we’re good to go- we’ve got our two
lines a sinking line here and a floating line and we’ve talked earlier about the different types of sinking lines like type one, three and six or
seven. So it doesn’t necessarily mean you need three different reels. You can buy
one reel and then buy two spare spools and put your other two sinking lines on
that and then your covered off on the different lines you need and then you’re
going to need another reel for your full floating line. So there you have your
basic setups for your fly rod, fly reels and your lines, and tying the flies on.

local_offerevent_note September 9, 2019

account_box Gilbert Heid


local_offer

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