How to Breed Peacock Gudgeons

How to Breed Peacock Gudgeons


Fish Buddy here. Going to talk about
breeding peacock gudgeons. Peacock Gudgeons are pretty easy to breed and you only
need a male and a female for a pair the male watches over the eggs and the
female conditions to lay soon after or right before the fry are free-swimming.
They come from a PH range from 7 to 7.8 in the wild from what I’ve been able to
find about them. I have bred them in more acidic levels, in
the low sixes just fine. The tank size should be about 15
gallons or more. I keep mine in a 20 gallon tall. And to distinguish the males
from the females the male’s are going to have a small nuchal hump. The females are are typically gonna have a black stripe along their anal fin, but my main breeding male has this characteristic as well, so it’s not always the case and females also tend to
have a yellowish patch on their sides of the belly. More so than the male and all
gudgeons, all the peacock gudgeons are brightly colored with orange stripes on a
light bluish iridescent body, and that’s what makes this fish beautiful. They
really show their colors when flaring to mate. So they prefer to spawn in caves and I
found half inch PVC pipe worked perfectly. A length of about six inches with an endcap seems to be what they would prefer. I gave him a few different size options.
After placing the proper spawning sites of a capped PVC, you’re gonna want to
condition them with fresh food. I like to use misys or mysis, and spirulina
brine shrimp and occasionally some blood worms. They’re picky eaters in my experience and hesitantly they will take flakes or very small pellets. Their mouths are really small so point five millimeter pellet is what I would recommend if you’re going to try
to feed them to the adults but again I prefer the frozen foods and I think that
helps condition them better. When properly conditioned the female is going to become swollen with eggs and then the male’s going to swim around his preferred cave.
And he’s going to start showing off his colors for the female and flaring his
fins. When she’s interested he’s gonna push
her into the cave with him and they’re gonna make fishy love. They’re gonna
rub all over each other until eventually she’s going to lay her eggs attached to
the cave walls. Sometimes from my experience she could take up to a day
maybe two before she lays eggs. Sometimes she would lay quickly on her own as well,
but cool water change always seem to encourage her if she wasn’t laying right
away and was just hanging out in the cave. So after she finishes the male’s
gonna chase her out he’s going to fertilize them and he’s just going to
start taking over the parental duties and then the going to be teeny tiny
babies are a hatch. He may come out a little right after the eggs are laid but
i wouldn’t expect them to he probably won’t eat or anything while
he’s babysitting either. Maybe if something falls right in front, but i
wouldn’t necessarily try. After they hatch and become free swimming with no yolk
sac attached they’ll start to be eaten by both parents if not removed prior, so
the eggs should be removed prior to this time. How much earlier is something I
wasn’t really able to find information about ,so I kind of had to experiment and
figure it out myself the best and see what works for me. So they hatch after about three days of
having the dad wave the freshwater over em’ to help keep em’ aerated. And at this
point they’re still attached to the yolk sac attach the PVC and are still going to
get fanned by the dad. And then from several experiences I
found that they detach after an additional five to seven days. So a total of
about eight to ten days before they swim off and become lunch for mom and dad. So from this information I began pulling
the tube away from dad around seven days after the females kicked out of the cave.
And he will not want to leave, I always feel bad after I take the cave out I
try to replace it with another one and he goes and hangs out in there for a
little while. He seems kinda sad and swims around wondering what happened to
his eggs. I even have had once where he stayed with the eggs that I put into the
breeding net, and was just hanging out around my hand because he just did not
want to leave those eggs. That’s how strong their parental instincts are, but
normally they’re super skittish. Whenever I put my hand around them unless it’s
food. My first attempt based on the information I’ve gathered
online I pulled eggs after about three days and lost most of the clutch to molding without proper water circulation. I was under the impression they would be
free swimming at that time and that’s why I left him with the dad for three
days I could have avoided that if I hadn’t pulled them so early or if I’d
been able to place an air stone in a way to keep the freshwater flowing over the
eggs. I didn’t really have the ability to set this up and I knew this method was used
by people that pull the eggs the day they are fertilized, but I like to let Dad do
all the work personally. So I pull the eggs I first place them into a hang on
breeder box to use airline, like a sponge filter, to put water into it and as it
fills it pours back into the main tank. It has a plastic screen to prevent fry from
entering the main tank. However peacock gudgeon fry are so tiny
they were slipping through and I had to get a mesh net breeder box. The one that I got in from my aquarium box
and I hung up below the output of the hang-on breeder box and this collected
the babies that got through while the ones who stayed in, they had a little bit
more room to hang out. So it’s possible to place them in a second tank if you use
water from the main tank and the filter is properly cycled. I chose to do this
eventually after the fry grew a bit older. They’re so tiny when they hatch they’re basically invisible except a little black dot they use their eyes. that
are their eyes. Being so tiny requires tiny food for the tiny mouths and everything I
found online talked about culturing live foods, but that’s not really something I
have time for. So initially I crushed flakes up very
finely, but knowing they’re picky eaters I really wanted something else. Frozen baby brine shrimp are actually
too large to easily fit in their mouths when the’re smaller so I needed something even
smaller than that and I found a food from New Life Spectrum called “grow” which is
basically powder. I just take a tiny pinch and slowly rub it between my
fingers and they just swarm to it. I guess alternatively you could grind a pellet
food up for em’, but again they’re just kinda picky eaters about pellets and flakes. As
they get larger they start to develop the eye spot on their tails and around this
time or shortly after they should be large enough to feed frozen baby brine shrimp. They absolutely go crazy for that. My oldest fry are about four months old only just
showing any signs of the bright orange coloration or the black stripe on the
anal fin, but there is definitely the yellow iridescense and the things that
that’s starting to make them look pretty. Unfortunately my camera sucks and I
can’t really pick that up. So they grow really slowly and they only reach a maximum size of about two to three inches depending on where I found information.
And from what I’ve read it takes several months to reach that size and
approximately nine months to reach sexual maturity. And also from what I’ve
found online they have a life expectancy of three to five years. They easily lay
a hundred eggs or more in a clutch. Mine still have some growing to do, but I plan on getting
two breeding pairs from the different sets of parents to continue my breeding
projects. And then considering getting a few new adults replace my breeding pair
that passed away. So check back for future updates on that. Thanks Fish
Buddies for coming to hang out with your Fish Buddy, and please subscribe if you
haven’t already done so just click that subscribe button. And we’ll see you guys
next time and have some future updates on this and some of my other tanks and
breeding projects.

local_offerevent_note February 28, 2020

account_box Gilbert Heid


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